WHAT IS AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT IN SKINCARE?

If you have even a passing interest in beauty, you’ll have heard the term ‘active ingredient’ used in relation to skincare. And, if your bathroom cabinet contains a hydrating hyaluronic acid serum, anti-acne BHA cleanser, or Vitamin C for skincare, you might be surprised to discover you're already using ‘actives’ in your regime.

In professional and over-the-counter products alike, active ingredients deliver bang for your skincare buck. But could you explain what actives are – or exactly what it is they do?

In this essential guide to active ingredients, we answer all these questions and more. We’ll start with the basics – “What is an active ingredient in skincare?” – before outlining some commonly used actives, tips for decoding skincare labels, and the reason ‘inactive’ ingredients shouldn't be discounted. Read on!

SO, WHAT IS AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT?

An active ingredient in skincare is an ingredient that helps a product target a particular skin concern – from acne to hyperpigmentation to fine lines and wrinkles. Scientifically proven to benefit the skin, active ingredients help a product perform its advertised function. They’re the ingredients you’ll find in your anti-ageing face creams, acne gels, and hydrating serums.

While included in a range of products, actives are especially common in targeted face serums. This is because a serum’s smaller molecular structure allows deeper penetration – which is ideal if you’re trying to target concerns in the skin.

Active skincare products are those containing one or more actives. Some common skincare actives include refining, resurfacing retinol, hydration-enhancing hyaluronic acid, and exfoliating alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).

Now, let’s look at these in detail.

ANTI-AGEING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

While it’s easy to be sceptical about anti-ageing products, some dermatologist-recommended actives have been proven to accelerate skin renewal, reduce damage caused by free radicals, and smooth the appearance of fine lines.

ANTI-ACNE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Helping to reduce the dead skin cell build-up that can contribute to breakouts, alpha and beta hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs) are active ingredients that are often found in acne products.

LHA

A lesser-known exfoliating acid, beta-lipohydroxy acid (LHA) is a salicylic acid derivative that gently dislodges dead skin cells without irritating sensitive skin. It features alongside salicylic and glycolic acids in the Effaclar Salicylic Acid Serum. 

SOOTHING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

While active ingredients like retinol and glycolic acid are very stimulating, others help soothe the skin and strengthen its natural barrier function. These soothing actives are often beneficial for dry, sensitive skin prone to redness.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN SELECTING AN ACTIVE SKINCARE PRODUCT?

Not all skincare products will specify the percentage of the active or actives included in the formulas. Simply put, this is not required for cosmetic formulations in Australia. Even looking at the order the ingredients are listed in the ingredient list is not the answer either as certain actives only need to be in low concentrations to be effective, so our advice, check out the scientific test results for the formula. These will speak volumes in illustrating the results you can expect to see.

Also, the optimum percentage of an active ingredient depends on its intended purpose, its absorption, and how well it will be tolerated by the skin. Different percentages are used to achieve different results, for example, a mild micro-exfoliation versus an intensive skin peeling. And different forms of retinoids and Vitamin C are not absorbed in the same way by the skin.

This means a lower percentage of a readily absorbed, biologically active form of Vitamin C such as L-ascorbic acid might be preferable to a higher percentage of another Vitamin C derivative.

The pH and stability of a formula also come into play and for any active, there’s also a maximum concentration after which no further benefit will be gained. With Vitamin C, this is usually considered to be 20%. Exceeding this concentration has been shown to have the potential for irritation, with no greater result.

The takeaway? When it comes to active ingredient concentrations, more isn’t always more.

ARE INACTIVE INGREDIENTS A WASTE OF TIME?

So, if active ingredients are those that help a product to brighten, tighten and refine, are inactive ingredients just filler? Absolutely not! Not all skincare products need to be active to provide effective care for your skin.

Cleansers are a good example. A standard cleanser doesn’t need active ingredients to gently remove impurities and makeup. However, an anti-acne cleanser specifically designed to reduce breakouts will benefit from an active ingredient such as salicylic acid to target clogged pores. Make sense?

Many products will include a mix of active and inactive ingredients, and these inactive ingredients play an important supporting role.

A FINAL WORD ON ACTIVES

Active ingredients are loved for a reason. However, they do need to be treated with respect. The over-use or inappropriate use of actives like acids and retinol, particularly at high concentrations, is a common cause of sensitised skin. And the first thing you’ll need to do if skin becomes sensitised? Pare back your skincare routine and replace your active products with gentle, minimalist formulas until a calmer complexion is restored.

Want more? Our article How to Layer Serums and Ingredients provides a detailed guide to layering skincare, including the active ingredients that do and don’t mix.

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