Azelaic Acid: Benefits and Use for Skin
Azelaic acid is an organic acid which and popular skincare ingredient, praised for its versatility and gentle effectiveness in addressing persistent breakouts, post-blemish marks, visible redness. But what exactly is it, and how can it benefit your skin? In this guide, we'll explore everything you need to know about azelaic acid, from its origins and benefits to how to incorporate it into your skincare routine.
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. It’s commonly used to target imperfections by providing exfoliation, promoting skin cell turnover and helping visibly reduce redness. This can in turn help reduce the appearance of post-blemish marks, clogged pores and reduce the occurrence of breakouts. Generally well-tolerated, azelaic acid is available in various formulations, including creams, gels, and foams, available in over-the-counter forms and higher strength, prescription forms.
What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a multi-tasking skincare ingredient that offers a range of benefits for varying skin concerns. Its gentle yet effective nature makes it suitable for many skin types, including sensitive skin.
● Reduces imperfections
● Visibly reduces redness
● Visibly fades hyperpigmentation
● Improves skin texture
● Unclogs pores
● Refines skin texture
● Generally well-tolerated
Reducing blemish-prone skin concerns
Azelaic acid works against pimples and breakouts through several mechanisms. It prevents clogged pores and has keratolyic properties (meaning it promotes the shedding of dead skin cells) to smooth out bumps and rough skin texture.
Reducing hyperpigmentation
Azelaic acid targets the pigment cells responsible for hyperpigmentation to reduce the appearance of dark spots, post-blemish marks and discolouration. Its mild exfoliating properties also help speed skin cell turnover, which helps to reduce surface level dark patches and post-blemish marks.
Visibly reduces redness
By addressing hyperpigmentation, azelaic acid can be used to visibly reduce redness, including redness associated with breakouts.
Refining skin texture
By supporting skin cell turnover, azelaic acid can be used to fight ageing skin concerns, including loss of skin elasticity, fine lines, wrinkles and sagging skin.
How to use azelaic acid in your skin care routine
Azelaic acid is usually found in the form of an azelaic acid gel cream or incorporated into a daily moisturiser. It’s typically incorporated into your skincare routine after cleansing and toning. While a gentle ingredient, it’s best to start using it once daily, gradually increasing to twice daily as tolerated. Always follow up with a high SPF, broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day, as azelaic acid can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun.
How long does it take to see results with azelaic acid?
It typically takes 4-8 weeks of consistent use to see noticeable results from azelaic acid products, but results may vary, and it depends on the individual and the specific skin concern being addressed.
Can you use azelaic acid with other ingredients?
Yes, topical azelaic acid pairs well with a number of other skincare ingredients, but some combinations require caution or may be best used under the guidance of a dermatologist. Here's a few beneficial skincare combinations.
- Hyaluronic acid: This humectant helps to attract and lock in water for hydrated, soft skin. It’s a great skincare partner for azelaic acid, as it can counteract any potential dryness.
- Ceramides: Ceramides can also help with potential dryness caused by azelaic acid, while also supporting the skin’s protective moisture barrier.
- Niacinamide: Niacinamide can complement azelaic acid in visibly reducing redness and fading hyperpigmentation. It also helps strengthen the protective moisture barrier.
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid): Vitamin C is a great ingredient for addressing a dull or uneven skin tone while also protecting against harmful free radicals. However, it's often recommended to use at different times of day (vitamin C in the morning, azelaic acid in the evening), to minimise potential irritation.
- Retinol: Proceed with caution when using retinol and azelaic acid, as combining the two can increase the risk of irritation. If you choose to combine them, consider using them on alternative nights, or buffering by applying a moisturiser before retinol. Consult a dermatologist for personalised advice.
- Salicylic acid: Some skincare products are formulated with a multi-acid blend, containing azelaic acid and salicylic acid, to enhance their skin benefits. But using the ingredients separately can increase the risk of irritation, so it’s best to combine the two through by incorporating one single product containing both ingredients, as these products will be carefully formulated to avoid irritation. The New La Roche-Posay AZ Gel Cream is formulated with 10% azelaic acid, as well as a complementary concentration of salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid, immediately hydrating the skin while targeted breakouts and skin ageing Insert Product link here.
Are there any potential side effects to azelaic acid?
While generally well-tolerated, some azelaic acid products can cause some mild and temporary side effects, primarily during initial use. These may include:
- Dryness
- Itching sensations
- Discomfort
- Redness or scaly skin
These side effects usually subside as your skin adjusts. If irritation persists or becomes severe, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. As with any new skincare ingredient, it's advisable to perform a patch test before applying it to your entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.
How does azelaic acid compare with other acids?
Azelaic acid does have similar properties to other chemical exfoliants, like salicylic acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid, but there are a few key differences that distinguish it. Here's how azelaic acid compares with other acids.
Azelaic acid vs. alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
AHAs, including glycolic acid, lactic acid and citric acid, offer mild exfoliating properties suitable for multiple skin types, gently lifting dead skin cells from the surface layers of the skin. While benzoyl peroxide has similar exfoliating properties, it has other properties to help manage skin irritation, making it valuable for blemish-prone skin.
Azelaic acid vs benzoyl peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide works by flooding the pores with oxygen, which prevents the formation of pimples caused by impurities and irritants. Azelaic acid works by breaking down dead skin cells that block pores and cause pimples. Both can help visibly reduce redness.
Azelaic acid vs. salicylic acid
Salicylic acid, a BHA, has more of an exfoliating function than benzoyl peroxide, which can help with skin texture, dull skin tone, pimples, and fine lines and wrinkles. It can be used as a regular exfoliating ingredient for different skin types, but azelaic acid is usually used to specifically address skin imperfections. The two are sometimes combined to enhance their skin benefits, but they should be carefully formulated together in lower concentrations to avoid adverse reactions.
Azelaic acid vs. hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid doesn't exfoliate skin like other acids, rather acts as a humectant supports skin hydration. Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in our body, but is also found in creams and moisturisers to maintain hyaluronic acid levels, attract and lock in water and prevent trans epidermal water loss.
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