HYPERPIGMENTATION: TYPES, CAUSES & CARE
Hyperpigmentation refers to a broad array of skin concerns affecting the pigmentation (its colour) of the skin in the form of spots, dark patches and uneven skin tone, either long-lasting or appearing over time. While not always the product of a skin condition, hyperpigmentation can affect the overall appearance of the skin and be frustrating to conceal.
Hyperpigmentation is a growing skin concern among individuals (N. Vashi et al., Facial Hyperpigmentation: Causes and Treatment, 2013), but can be managed and minimised using preventative measures, skincare products and some professional treatments. In this article we'll discuss in more detail what hyperpigmentation is, the different types and possible causes, as well strategies for visibly reducing and preventing unwanted pigmentation for a more even skin tone.
WHAT IS HYPERPIGMENTATION?
Hyperpigmentation manifests as tan or brown patches, red spots and purplish marks, in varying shapes and sizes, depending on the cause. Hyperpigmentation is not a skin condition, rather an umbrella term that describes skin that appears darker. That being said, hyperpigmentation can be symptomatic of a skin condition, but can also be caused by hormonal changes, sun exposure, blemishes and genetics.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF HYPERPIGMENTATION?
Hyperpigmentation is the broad umbrella term for an array of pigmentation types, such as sunspots, melasma and PIH. Different types of pigmentation can manifest in different areas of the skin, varying in shape, size, depth, and colour.
FRECKLES
Freckles are small, flat spots, usually tan or light brown, that are largely determined by genetics. They tend to be more prominent in the summer due to increased sun exposure and more likely in pale skin.
SUNSPOTS/AGE SPOTS (SOLAR LENTIGINES)
Sunspots, sometimes called age spots, are flat, brown spots that develop on areas frequently exposed to the sun. Sunspots are the result of accumulated sun exposure that triggers the production of melanin. They’re more likely to appear or darken as we age in adults over 50 due to the accumulated melanin over time. They also occur in areas that have repeated sun exposure such as the back of the hands, tops of the feet, face, shoulders and upper back—which is why the term “age spots” is often interchangeable with sunspots.
MELASMA
Also called chloasma, or the "mask of pregnancy", melasma is a type of hyperpigmentation caused by hormonal changes during pregnancy that trigger uneven melanin production. Melasma appears as large, blotchy patches on the face, primarily on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and jawline, and is more common in darker skin.
POSTINFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENTATION (PIH)
Breakouts, burns or cuts impair the skin, leaving behind stubborn dark or red marks. These marks can fade over time, but, depending on the cause, may remain on the skin for a while or lead to permanent uneven skin tone.
WHAT CAUSES HYPERPIGMENTATION?
Hyperpigmentation can be genetic or be triggered later on in life. The most common causes are hormonal changes, sun exposure, ageing, as well as your skin type’s natural predisposition to hyperpigmentation.
- Hormones: Hormonal changes, especially during pregnancy or changes to testosterone, oestrogen and progesterone can lead to changes in skin tone.
- Sun exposure: Prolonged and persistent exposure to UV rays triggers the production of melanin that determines skin pigment.
- Genetics & skin tone: Genes can play a role in hyperpigmentation, and some forms of hyperpigmentation are more likely to occur in certain skin tones. For example, darker skin is more likely to develop melasma, while pale skin is more likely to develop freckles and sunspots.
- Medications: Certain medications, like the contraceptive pill and medication that increases sensitivity to sunlight, can contribute to hyperpigmentation.
- Skin injury: Blemishes, burns or cuts can leave behind marks and spots that may fade over time or stubbornly remain on the skin.
HOW TO GET RID OF HYPERPIGMENTATION
Skincare products, lifestyle changes and treatments can be used to address skin pigmentation.
PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS FOR HYPERPIGMENTATION
Some professional treatments can help to break down the pigment cells causing hyperpigmentation or trigger the cell renewal cycle that promotes fresher, clearer skin. Common treatments include:
- Chemical peels: This treatment provides a deep exfoliation to remove the outer layers of dead skin cells, revealing fresher skin and reducing surface level spots.
- Microdermabrasion: Uses a handheld tool or abrasive attachment to target outer layers of the skin, helping to improve skin tone.
- Microneedling: Helps with hyperpigmentation by breaking down pigmented skin cells and promoting the skin cell renewal process to reveal fresher skin.
- Laser therapy: There are a range of laser therapies that can help to promote collagen production that helps with a more even skin tone and texture.
- Non-ablative laser: Uses heat energy to target deep layers of the skin to promote collagen production that helps to visibly pigmentation.
- IPL laser: Also known as a photofacial, IPL uses light energy to break down the melanin responsible for pigmentation.
- Cryotherapy: Dark spots are frozen by applying liquid nitrogen to the area, which eventually destroys the accumulated pigment cells.
While these procedures may work faster than skincare, they come with an increased risk of side effects, which is why it’s always important to discuss with a healthcare practitioner to determine their suitability. Consulting with a dermatologist is also important for ruling out whether skin pigmentation stems from an underlying skin condition or possible melanoma.
SKINCARE INGREDIENTS FOR HYPERPIGMENTATION
An effective way to manage uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation is through incorporating the right skincare ingredients. Below is a list of ingredients that are beneficial for minimising and preventing hyperpigmentation.
MELASYL
Melasyl is a new, multi-patented ingredient specifically designed to target localised pigmentation that causes age spots and post-blemish marks. Unlike other formulas that inhibit melanin production, this ingredient targets an excess of melanin in the skin by capturing the precursors of melanin before they’ve transformed into coloured pigment. This helps prevent the accumulation of pigment that causes areas of the skin to darken.
RETINOL
Retinol is a type of vitamin A that works to speed up the cell renewal cycle to promote new collagen production. This process of promoting collagen production helps to reveal fresher skin with a visible reduction in ageing skin concerns including fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity and age spots. It also helps to inhibit the production of melanin-producing enzymes, which in turns stops the formation of new dark patches while visibly reducing the appearance of existing ones.
ANTIOXIDANTS
Antioxidants offer protection against environmental aggressors that can worsen hyperpigmentation. The most popular antioxidants in skincare are:
- Vitamin C: Also known as ascorbic acid, helps to neutralise damaging free radicals in the environment that can exacerbate pigmentation, as well as supports an overall brighter, more radiant complexion.
- Vitamin E: Also known as alpha-tocopherol is another antioxidant that helps to protect against environmental aggressors that could worsen hyperpigmentation.
TYROSINASE INHIBITORS
Tyrosinase inhibitors work by blocking tyrosinase, a multi-functional enzyme that plays a role in the production of melanin that can lead to hyperpigmentation. The most common tyrosinase inhibitors found in skincare are azelaic acid, kojic acid and hydroquinone.
● Azelaic Acid: This naturally occurring acid is found in grains such as barley, wheat, and rye, and helps to visibly reduce redness and pigment by inhibiting melanin-producing tyrosinase and neutralising free radicals responsible for skin redness.
● Kojic acid: Kojic acid is a byproduct of a type of fungi, but can also be found in certain fermented foods. It tackles uneven pigmentation by halting the production of melanin, helping to lighten dark areas of the skin.
● Hydroquinone (HQ): Hydroquinone reduces melanin production in the outer, surface layers of the skin (the epidermis), in addition to promoting the breakdown of melanocytes, to help lighten the skin and visibly fade dark spots.
NIACINAMIDE
This vitamin B3 derivative works by breaking down melanin cells in the skin that cause dark spots to help fade existing hyperpigmentation. It also helps prevent future discoloration by promoting the production of essential lipids that make up the skin’s protective moisture barrier. Its ability to tighten pores also helps reduce the chances of dark spots caused by blemishes. As a gentle, soothing formula, all skin types, including sensitive skin, can use niacinamide for hyperpigmentation.
CHEMICAL EXFOLIANTS
Chemical exfoliants help with discoloration by breaking down dead skin cells to remove surface level pigmentation and promote skin cell turnover. Chemical exfoliants include BHAs, AHAs and LHAs.
LIQUORICE ROOT EXTRACT
Liquorice root extract contains a skin-lightening compound called liquiritin. This breaks down production of darker pigments which can help address uneven skin tone.
TRANEXAMIC ACID
Derived from amino acids, growing research has shown tranexamic acid to have skin brightening benefits that help with dark spots and pigmentation.
WHAT ARE THE BEST PRODUCTS FOR HYPERPIGMENTATION?
MELA B3 NIACINAMIDE SERUM FOR DARK SPOTS
Our new niacinamide serum corrects the appearance of persistent dark spots, powered by our breakthrough Melasyl and 10% niacinamide. This soothing, corrective serum in a lightweight gel-serum formula, suitable for all skin types.
MELA B3 NIACINAMIDE CLARIFYING CLEANSER
A clarifying, micro-peeling cleanser powered by our multi-patented Melaysl and niacinamide to reduce the appearance of dark spots and promote brighter, more radiant skin. Use this cleanser before your Mela B3 serum.
HOW TO PREVENT HYPERPIGMENTATION
The first step to managing hyperpigmentation is preventing them. In some instances, hyperpigmentation can't be prevented, but there are a few things that can help minimise the chances of discoloration or prevent existing spots from worsening.
Moisturise and Hydrate
Moisturising products are imperative to keeping the skin's moisture barrier intact, which is what protects the skin from environmental aggressors and sun damage. Maintaining this moisture barrier is paramount to managing most skin concerns, including pigmentation.
Avoid picking the skin or popping pimples
Avoid picking the skin or popping pimples as this can impact the surrounding skin and increase the chances of dark spots and post-blemish marks.
Sun safety
Lastly, and most importantly, sun protection is vital to preventing both the production of hyperpigmentation as well as the worsening of existing hyperpigmentation. In addition to a broad-spectrum sunscreen, protect from the sun by wearing protective clothing, sunglasses and a hat. Avoid peak sun hours, usually between 10am and 3pm and apply sunscreen every 2 hours during the day.
Use gentle skincare
Avoid any abrasive skincare products that may do more harm than good. The key to preventing unwanted pigmentation is by maintaining the skin’s protective moisture barrier with a balanced skincare routine. Look for fragrance-free, gentle skincare formulated to suit your skin type.
Identifying suspicious lesions
Age spots can be confused with more serious melanoma. Remember to always prioritise your skin’s health by monitoring any abnormalities in skin pigment. Always take note if a spot is increasing in size, has an irregular border or unusual combination of colours or appears black. Skin cancer can be treated when identified in the early stages, which is why regular skin checks are essential to your skin’s health. For more information, visit our Skin Check Service page.
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