Topical vitamin C for skin is an important skincare ingredient that offers multiple benefits, including as an antioxidant, in boosting collagen synthesis, hyperpigmentation reduction, and as a defence against environmental aggressors.
In this article, we'll explore what vitamin C is, dig into its skin benefits, and provide a guide on how to effectively incorporate this ingredient into a skincare routine.
THE ROLE OF TOPICAL VITAMIN C IN SKIN
COLLAGEN SYNTHESIS
Collagen, an important protein, is the scaffolding that maintains the structure, firmness, and elasticity of our skin. As we age, collagen production naturally diminishes, leading to the appearance of wrinkles and a loss of skin elasticity. Strategies to boost collagen synthesis counteract premature signs of ageing to help preserve a youthful and vibrant complexion.
ANTIOXIDANT PROPERTIES
Vitamin C is renowned for its potent antioxidant properties, which play a vital role in neutralising harmful free radicals generated through exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and environmental pollutants. Free radicals can inflict oxidative stress on the skin, accelerating the visible ageing process. By scavenging these free radicals, Vitamin C mitigates oxidative stress, preserving the skin's bright and healthy-looking appearance.
PROTECTING AGAINST UV DAMAGE AND ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTANTS
Although in no way a substitute for sunscreen, Vitamin C fortifies the skin's defence against harmful UV rays by reducing the damage induced by free radicals. Furthermore, it helps safeguard the skin against a myriad of environmental pollutants by helping enhance the skin moisture barrier, thus providing an additional layer of defence against external aggressors that can compromise the skin's condition.
In the following sections, we'll explore the practical applications of topical vitamin C in skincare and dig deeper into the benefits it offers our skin.
VARIOUS FORMS OF TOPICAL VITAMIN C
L-ASCORBIC ACID
L-ascorbic acid, the pure form of vitamin C, is the most biologically active and effective option for penetrating the skin. This form of vitamin C is renowned for its effective antioxidant and skin-brightening capabilities. However, the potency of L-ascorbic acid can be easily affected by the presence of light and air, and this poses challenges for both product formulation and packaging, requiring careful strategies to preserve its efficacy.
ASCORBYL PALMITATE
Ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C that's useful for its enhanced stability and ability to deeply penetrate the skin, offering antioxidant protection against free radicals and aiding in visible rejuvenation of the skin’s surface.
SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is another stable derivative of vitamin C, this time water-soluble, and one suitable for mild acne-prone skin with its anti-bacterial properties.
MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP for short) is a water-soluble yet oil-loving stabilised form of vitamin C. It doesn't require a low pH for efficacy, is generally well-tolerated, and is considered more stable in the presence of light and air than pure vitamin C. It delivers many of the same benefits, although not as potent an antioxidant as the pure form. Its oil-loving nature improves skin penetration for deeper hydration; indeed, MAP is considered one of the most hydrating forms of vitamin C.
STABILITY AND EFFECTIVENESS OF TOPICAL VITAMIN C SERUMS & CREAMS
Because the effectiveness of vitamin C can be so easily compromised by light, air, and pH acidity, understanding the relative stability of vitamin C in different skincare formulations is important. Exploring the nuances of various formulations, including vitamin C serum, vitamin C moisturisers, and lotions, reveals insights into the way different products cater to diverse skin needs and preferences.
HOW TO PROPERLY APPLY AND STORE VITAMIN C SKINCARE PRODUCTS
Compliance with correct application and storage guidelines for vitamin C products is crucial for maximising their benefits. This includes understanding optimal layering techniques, recognising the importance of using a broad spectrum sunscreen with high SPF in conjunction with vitamin C products, and adhering to storage guidelines to preserve product potency.
THE MULTIPLE BENEFITS OF TOPICAL VITAMIN C FOR SKIN
BRIGHTENING SKIN AND REDUCING HYPERPIGMENTATION
Vitamin C aids in reducing hyperpigmentation and other dark spots, thereby contributing to a more even and radiant skin tone.
FADING DARK SPOTS AND EVENING SKIN TONE
Through its antioxidant properties, Vitamin C also works to visibly fade existing dark spots and discolouration, promoting a uniformly bright and vibrant complexion that is often associated with youthful skin.
ANTI-AGEING PROPERTIES
REDUCING THE APPEARANCE OF WRINKLES AND FINE LINES
The integral role of topical vitamin C in helping stimulate collagen synthesis helps mitigate the visible appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, providing the skin with a plumper, smoother, and more youthful appearance.
ENHANCING SKIN FIRMNESS AND ELASTICITY
By helping promote collagen production, Vitamin C not only targets wrinkles, but also enhances the skin’s firmness and elasticity, attributes that tend to diminish with age and environmental damage.
HYDRATION AND MOISTURISATION
STRENGTHENING THE SKIN MOISTURE BARRIER
Topical vitamin C contributes to reinforcing the skin moisture barrier, enhancing its ability to lock in moisture by preventing trans-epidermal water loss. This helps maintain optimal hydration levels and ensure the skin remains supple and moisturised. A strong skin moisture barrier also helps protect against external aggressors.
LA ROCHE-POSAY'S VITAMIN C RANGE
VITAMIN C 10 BRIGHTENING SERUM is an anti-ageing serum for sensitive skin. This wrinkle-fighting serum is formulated with pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), salicylic acid, and Neurosensine™ to tackle loss of radiance and other visible signs of ageing, for skin that feels softer, more hydrated, and glowing.
REDERMIC VITAMIN C 10 FIRMING MOISTURISER is an anti-wrinkle firming moisturiser for sensitive skin with a formula that combines 10% pure vitamin C with hyaluronic acid and vitamin E for hydration and a visibly plumper look. It targets wrinkles, loss of firmness, and lack of luminosity.
REDERMIC VITAMIN C ANTI-AGEING EYE CREAM is an anti-ageing eye cream specifically designed for the delicate skin around the eye contour areas, which are often the first to show visible signs of ageing. Vitamin C is combined with other anti-ageing ingredients to brighten skin and visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Suitable for those with sensitive eye contour areas.
INCORPORATING VITAMIN C INTO A SKINCARE ROUTINE
Topical vitamin C can be highly beneficial due to its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, as well as its ability to brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Below is a more detailed breakdown of the points outlined:
IDENTIFYING THE RIGHT CONCENTRATION AND FORMULATION OF VITAMIN C
CONCENTRATION:Topical vitamin C products are available in a range of concentrations, typically from 5% to 30%. For beginners or those with sensitive skin, we recommend starting at a lower concentration and gradually increasing it.
FORMULATION: Choose a topical vitamin C formulation best suited to your skin type. For oily skin, a lightweight vitamin C serum or gel might be preferable, with a cream or lotion better for dry skin. See below for details.
Also keep in mind the pH level and stability of the vitamin C product to make sure you are getting maximum potency.
COMBINING VITAMIN C WITH OTHER SKINCARE INGREDIENTS
VITAMIN E:
● Synergy: vitamin E and vitamin C work synergistically to enhance the antioxidant capabilities of each other, providing improved protection against environmental aggressors.
● Usage: look for products that contain both, or layer a vitamin E product over your vitamin C serum.
HYALURONIC ACID:
● Hydration: While vitamin C works on brightening and protecting, hyaluronic acid helps to hydrate and plump the skin.
● Usage: Can be used in tandem with vitamin C without any issues, either in a combined product or layered separately. For more detail read our article on combining hyaluronic acid and vitamin C.
ADDRESSING POTENTIAL SIDE EFFECTS AND SENSITIVITIES
● Irritation: Some people may experience irritation, redness, or dryness when first using vitamin C. We recommend performing a patch test before fully incorporating it into your routine.
● Gradual Introduction: Start with a lower concentration of vitamin C and gradually build up to allow your skin to develop tolerance.
● Neutralising: If irritation occurs, neutralise the acid with a soothing, pH-balanced mist or toner.
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DIFFERENT SKIN TYPES
● Sensitive skin: Choose a product with a lower concentration of vitamin C and look for formulations specifically designed for sensitive skin, which may also include soothing ingredients.
● Oily/blemish-prone skin: Choose a vitamin C formulation in a lightweight serum or gel formulation that won’t clog pores.
● Dry skin: Look for vitamin C products that have hydrating formulations, such as creams or lotions, or those where it is combined with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid.
● Mature skin: Consider formulations that combine vitamin C with ingredients that boost collagen production, or peptides to support skin elasticity and firmness.
ADDITIONAL TIPS
● Sunscreen is a Must: Always apply a high SPF broad spectrum sunscreen during the day, especially when using vitamin C, to protect your skin from UV damage.
● Storage: To prevent oxidation of the vitamin C, ensure your products are stored in a cool, dark place and packaged in dark or opaque containers to prevent oxidation.
● Consistency is Key: Regular use of vitamin C is important to see and maintain results.
Related Vitamin C Articles
Stay In Touch