Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Benefits and Use For Skin
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are powerful exfoliants that can transform your skin. An alpha hydroxy acid works by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells to reveal fresher skin and unclog pores. Common AHAs include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid and malic acid. Read on to learn the benefits of AHAs, their types, and how to use them in your skincare routine in this article.
WHAT ARE ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are a group of naturally occurring acids derived from both plant and animal sources. These water soluble acids, characterised by a hydroxyl group on the alpha position, are primarily used for their chemical exfoliating abilities. AHAs gently remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface and promote skin cell turnover to improve skin texture. More than exfoliation, they also reduce uneven skin tone, minimise age spots, and enhance the skin’s moisture retention.
HOW AHAS WORK ON THE SKIN
AHAs work their magic on the skin through chemical exfoliation. During the exfoliation process, AHAs break down the bonds holding dead skin cells together on the surface of the skin, allowing these skin cells to be removed. This process reveals the fresher skin underneath while unclogging pores to prevent breakouts.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS?
Alpha hydroxy acids encompass a variety of acids, each with unique properties and benefits for the skin. The different types of AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and mandelic acid.
● Glycolic acid: Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid has a smaller molecular size compared with other AHAs, allowing it to better penetrate the skin. This makes glycolic acid a suitable exfoliant for normal, oily and combination skin types, but it can be too irritating for sensitive skin.
● Lactic acid: This ingredient is found in sour milk and fermented foods, and has a larger molecular size that penetrates the skin more slowly, making it suitable for sensitive skin. Lactic acid also has hydrating properties that minimise irritation and help improve skin texture.
● Citric acid: Found in citrus fruits, this AHA works as an antioxidant and helps to balance out pH levels. It does have some exfoliating properties but is less effective than lactic or glycolic acid.
● Malic acid: Another milder alpha hydroxy acid, malic acid is found in apples and other fruits and is used in skincare to improve skin texture and even out skin tone.
● Mandelic acid: Derived from almonds, mandelic acid has a larger molecular size, similar to lactic acid, making it a gentler and more suitable exfoliant for sensitive skin. It’s often used to help with hyperpigmentation and blemishes.
● Tartaric acid: Found in grapes, tartaric acid is another AHA with antioxidant properties, and is usually used in combination with other AHAs to enhance their efficacy.
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WHAT ARE THE SKINCARE BENEFITS OF USING AHAS?
AHAs are gentle exfoliants that help to combat stubborn breakouts and reveal brighter, more radiant skin. Besides exfoliation, AHAs can also support skin hydration, visibly reduce pore size, and minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making them a versatile addition to any skincare regimen.
● Gentle exfoliant: AHAs are the most gentle option for exfoliating the skin. Physical exfoliants, like scrubs and brushes can irritate the skin, and the stronger BHAs can also be too harsh on sensitive, allergy-prone skin.
● Visibly reduce pore size: By clearing the pores of excess oil and dead skin cells, AHAs help to shrink and visibly reduce pore size, which minimises the chances of whitehead and blackhead formation.
● Improves skin texture: AHAs support smoother skin texture by removing dead skin cells and promoting skin cell turnover, clearing away rough-looking patches and visible flakiness.
● Hyperpigmentation: AHAs support the skin cell turnover cycle to reveal fresher skin and help to visibly fade surface level dark spots by promoting skin cell turnover.
● Anti-ageing: By promoting skin cell turnover, AHAs help maintain the skin’s firmness and elasticity and visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for a more youthful appearance.
● Manages breakouts: By gently removing dead skin cells and excess oil, AHAs help reduce breakouts for smoother, clearer skin.
WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS AND BETA HYDROXY ACIDS?
Both alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are chemical exfoliants, but they different in their solubility. AHAs are water-soluble and primarily work on the skin's surface, while BHAs, like salicylic acid, are oil-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deeper into the pores to target blemishes. Because of this, BHAs are a stronger exfoliant better suited to oily skin types. Because AHAs only affect the outer layers of the skin, they’re a more gentle exfoliant option suitable for sensitive and dry skin. The two can, however, be used together to target both surface-level and deeper skin concerns like persistent breakouts and excess oil.
INCORPORATING AHAS INTO YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE
If you're adding AHAs to your routine for the first time, here's what you need to know.
● Start slowly: Start with a lower concentration product, introducing 3-4 times a week before increasing the frequency. How often you exfoliate depends on your skin type. Some skin types can use AHAs daily or twice daily, but if you have very sensitive skin, you might only use a gentle alpha hydroxy acid every other day.
● Choose the right product: AHAs are available in various formulations, including cleansers, serums, and peels. Cleansers typically offer a gentle introduction to AHAs, while serums and leave-on exfoliants are more potent.
● Sun protection: AHAs do increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight, so always use a high-SPF, broad spectrum sunscreen every day to protect from UV damage.
● Over-exfoliation: Over-exfoliation from excessive use of AHAs can compromise the skin moisture barrier and lead to skin irritation. Monitor your skin when introducing AHAs, and stop using your product if you notice increased sensitivity and irritation.
WHAT ARE THE SIDE EFFECTS OF AHAS?
AHAs are a gentler exfoliating option, but overuse or using highly concentrated formulas can irritate some skin types. Side effects may include skin sensitivity, redness, tight-feeling skin, rough patches and pimples. If you notice these reactions, stop using AHAs until you notice a visible improvement. Then, gradually reintroduce the product and monitor your skin’s reaction. AHAs can also increase sensitivity to sun exposure, making sun protection especially important.
ACHIEVE SMOOTHER SKIN WITH AHAS
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are powerful allies in the quest for glowing, healthy-looking skin. Their ability to gently exfoliate the face and body, improve skin texture, visibly fade hyperpigmentation, and provide anti-aging benefits makes them a versatile addition to any skincare routine. By starting slowly, choosing the right products, and protecting your skin from the sun, you can safely harness the benefits of AHAs.
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