You may have noticed ingredients glycolic acid and lactic acid in the product labels of your skincare. These alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are found in a range of products, including cleansers, moisturisers and toners, and work to exfoliate and remove dead skin cells for a smoother, more even skin tone. But while the two are both chemical exfoliants, they have different properties.
In this article we'll discuss glycolic acid vs lactic acid, what their role is in skincare and which ingredient is best suited for your skin. Let’s get started.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LACTIC ACID AND GLYCOLIC ACID
While both glycolic and lactic acid work by breaking down bonds between dead skin cells, they have some distinct differences.
GLYCOLIC ACID
- Smaller molecular size for deeper penetration
- Better for oily skin types or blemish-prone skin
- Removes dead skin cells faster
- Derived from sugar cane
LACTIC ACID
- Hydrating properties for dry skin
- Gentler ingredient, making it suitable for sensitive or dry skin
- Slower exfoliating results
- Naturally produced by body, found in sour milk and fermented food
BREAKING DOWN LACTIC ACID VS GLYCOLIC ACID
WHAT IS GLYCOLIC ACID?
Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, is generally considered a faster-acting, effective form of exfoliation. Being a smaller molecule, glycolic acid penetrates the deeper layers of skin, leading to more dramatic results.
Pros of glycolic acid
- Deeper penetration: Smaller molecule size means glycolic acid works more effectively to unclog pores, reduce blackheads and whiteheads, and improve skin texture.
- Faster results: You'll likely see visible improvements to your skin more quickly compared to lactic acid.
- Suitable for oily and blemish-prone skin: Glycolic acid helps to regulate sebum production that can lead to overly oily skin and breakout
Cons of glycolic acid
- Higher risk of irritation: The advantage of faster results has the disadvantage of higher chance of skin irritation. It may cause redness, burning, or dryness, especially for sensitive skin types.
- Not ideal for dry or sensitive skin: On that note, glycolic acid can exacerbate dryness if used too frequently or in high concentrations.
- Increases sun sensitivity: All chemical exfoliants cause sun sensitivity, but due to glycolic acid's deeper penetration, it can cause increased sun sensitivity.
WHAT IS LACTIC ACID?
Lactic acid is found both naturally in the body as well as in fermented foods and sour milk. It's a larger molecule that gently exfoliates while attracting moisture to the skin. Lactic acid products are better for dry or mature skin, as it doesn't strip the skin of its natural oils.
Pros of lactic acid
- Gentle exfoliation: Suitable for even the most sensitive skin, including those prone to irritation.
- Hydrating properties: Attracts moisture to the skin, making it an excellent choice for dry or dehydrated skin.
- Improves skin tone and texture: Effectively minimise fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation without being overly harsh.
Cons of lactic acid
- Slower results: May take longer to see noticeable changes compared to glycolic acid.
- Less effective for more severe blemishes: Might not be powerful enough to combat deep-rooted blackheads or whiteheads.
- Can still cause irritation if overused: As with any active ingredient, moderation is key, as overuse of lactic acid can risk over-exfoliation.
GLYCOLIC ACID VS. LACTIC ACID: WHICH IS BEST?
Using too many alpha hydroxy acids can increase the risk of over-exfoliation. We recommend you stick to one exfoliating ingredient to ensure you don't irritate the skin.
● If you're looking for faster, more powerful exfoliation, opt for glycolic acid, especially if you have oily, blemish-prone skin and are not particularly sensitive.
● If you have sensitive skin and are looking for an effective exfoliant that provides hydration, consider lactic acid.
SUN PROTECTION WHEN USING GLYCOLIC AND LACTIC ACIDS
All alpha hydroxy acids cause sun sensitivity, which is why it's especially important to wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily. The Anthelios face sunscreens all provide SPF 50+ sunscreen that protects from UVA and UVB rays.
ALWAYS READ THE LABEL AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS FOR USE.
Apply 20 minutes before sun exposure. Sunscreen is only one part of sun protection so wear protective clothing and seek shade. Avoid prolonged sun exposure. Reapply every 2 hours and after swimming, towelling and perspiring in accordance with directions.
INCORPORATING ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS INTO YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE
Remember, always listen to your skin. When incorporating any exfoliant into your routine, start slow and patch test the product. If you experience excessive irritation or are looking for more tailored skincare recommendations, consult a dermatologist.
Read our article “What are Chemical Exfoliants for the Skin?” to learn more about these skincare ingredients.
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