Glycolic Acid Versus Salicylic Acid: The Ultimate Guide for Radiant Skin
Amongst a host of exfoliating agents commonly used in skincare, glycolic acid and salicylic acid are two of the most popular. This article highlights the key points and differences between them to help you decide whether to add them to your skincare routine and if so, which one, based on your skin type and concerns.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
- Glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), offers several skin benefits, including to improve uneven skin texture, skin tone, and boost collagen production. It should be used with caution because of the potential for irritation and increased sun sensitivity.
- With its ability to penetrate pores and remove dead skin cells from inside them, as well as to regulate sebum (skin's natural oils) production, salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA for short) is effective at targeting blemishes. This makes it suitable for oily and mild acne-prone skin.
- Picking the right one depends on your individual skin concern. Whichever you choose, integrate it into your skincare routine carefully, to avoid over-exfoliation.
STANDING GLYCOLIC ACID AND ITS SKIN BENEFITS
Glycolic acid, a natural constituent of sugarcane and some fruits, is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that brings several benefits to the skin. It improves skin texture, tone, and radiance, diminishes fine lines and hyperpigmentation, boosts skin hydration, and enhances the absorption of other skincare products through its exfoliating properties.
But how does it work?
Glycolic acid, much like salicylic acid, works by removing dead skin cells from the top layer of skin, bringing healthy, new skin cells to the surface. Glycolic acid has the smallest size molecule of all AHAs and is considered to have the greatest rate and degree of skin penetration.
Shown to increase skin hydration in addition to providing exfoliation, skincare professionals often recommend this acid for concerns such as visible signs of ageing and sun damage.
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Studies also suggest that with long-term use, topical glycolic acid can stimulate production of collagen and elastin in the skin. Collagen is a fibre-like protein that gives the skin much of its structure, and elastin is a coiled protein that gives skin its elasticity. Together they help keep your skin plump and smooth-looking. Natural production of these decreases with age.
The effectiveness of glycolic acid as a skin care ingredient is determined by what is known as its 'free acid value' – the active acid available to work on your skin, and which is determined by the pH level and concentration.
THE EXFOLIATING POWERS OF GLYCOLIC ACID
Glycolic acid works through exfoliation, enhancing skin texture and tone by:
- Chemically breaking down the bonds holding dead skin cells to the skin's surface, facilitating their easier removal.
- Revealing fresher, newer skin cells beneath, to give a visibly more radiant complexion.
GLYCOLIC ACID FOR DRY SKIN TYPES
Glycolic acid is often recommended for dry skin types because of its hydrating properties and ability to improve skin texture. It offers several benefits here, including:
● Enhanced collagen and elastin production
● Promoting skin hydration
● Regulating oil production
● Brightening the appearance of mature or dry skin
A WORD OF CAUTION ON GLYCOLIC ACID...
Remember, whilst glycolic acid can offer all these benefits, it can also cause side effects such as dryness and irritation. This applies particularly to products with concentrations exceeding 10%, or in individuals with sensitive skin. It’s therefore best to start at a lower concentration and take it slowly, using once or twice a week and gradually increasing this based on your skin’s tolerance.
Glycolic acid also makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, so daily use of a broad spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF30 for both UVA and UVB protection is important when using glycolic acid products, especially if you have a dry or sensitive skin type.
NB: The La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF50+ sun protection range offers broad spectrum sun protection for all skin types.
ALWAYS READ THE LABEL AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS FOR USE.
Apply sunscreen 20 minutes before sun exposure. Sunscreen is only one part of sun protection so wear protective clothing and seek shade. Avoid prolonged sun exposure. Reapply every 2 hours and after swimming, towelling, and perspiring, in accordance with directions.
WHAT ABOUT SALICYLIC ACID?
Let's move on to salicylic acid, a BHA extracted originally from willow bark, although it's now mostly synthesised. Salicylic acid gets big ticks in skincare circles for its ability to:
● Target and prevent blemishes
● Reduce/minimise hyperpigmentation
● Improve skin texture
● Regulate excess oil
SALICYLIC ACID FOR OILY AND ACNE-PRONE SKIN
As well as exfoliating the skin's surface, its oil solubility enables salicylic acid to penetrate and clear pores. This, and the ability to regulate oil production makes it effective at targeting existing blemishes and preventing breakouts, so salicylic acid is a great option for individuals with oily or mild acne-prone skin.
What sets salicylic acid apart from other blemish-control ingredients is its suitability even for sensitive skin.
You still want to exercise a little caution when introducing it to your routine though...
● Stick to lower concentrations unless advised otherwise by your healthcare professional.
● Avoid using multiple products containing the same ingredient.
● Seek advice from a healthcare professional before using salicylic acid during pregnancy or while breastfeeding.
● Apply a daily broad spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF30 to help protect against increased sun sensitivity.
GLYCOLIC ACID VS SALICYLIC ACID: TARGETING DIFFERENT SKIN CONCERNS
The differing properties of glycolic and salicylic acids mean they can be used to target different skin concerns.
As a water-soluble alpha hydroxy acid with a small molecular size allowing deep and rapid skin penetration, glycolic acid facilitates natural exfoliation of dead skin cells from the surface. It's useful for addressing visible signs of ageing, like fine lines and uneven texture, and is most suitable for individuals with normal to dry skin.
Conversely, salicylic acid, a larger, oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid, doesn't penetrate the skin layers as well, but instead deeply penetrates pores to exfoliate them from within. By also regulating excess sebum production, salicylic acid is effective at targeting blemishes and clogged pores, so is an appropriate choice for individuals with oily or mild acne-prone skin.
OPTIMISING YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE WITH GLYCOLIC AND SALICYLIC ACIDS
Ok, let's turn our attention to optimising your skincare routine with these ingredients.
Whether you use glycolic or salicylic acid (or another AHA/BHA), we've seen how exfoliation can be beneficial for particular skin concerns. It also optimises the efficiency of other skincare products at penetrating the skin to do their job. La Roche-Posay recommends exfoliating two to three times a week, based on your skin’s tolerance.
BALANCING BENEFITS AND BREAKOUTS
Although exfoliation is essential for removing dead skin cells to reveal brighter skin underneath, over-exfoliation (whether chemical or physical) can be counterproductive, leading to unwanted effects including:
● skin irritation and redness
● breakouts
● damage to the skin moisture barrier
La Roche-Posay recommends avoiding abrasive physical exfoliators; use gentle chemical exfoliants such as glycolic or salicylic acids instead.
CUSTOMISING USE FOR SKIN TYPE AND SENSITIVITY
To achieve optimal results and minimise the likelihood of adverse reactions, you should customise your use of these ingredients to suit your skin type and level of sensitivity to them. To assess these, take note of your skin’s behaviour and response over time, and identify any personal triggers for sensitivity.
When introducing any new AHA or BHA to your skincare routine, we always advise starting at a low concentration and frequency of application, then gradually increasing these as your skin develops tolerance. This approach minimises irritation and provides your skin with sufficient time to adjust to the exfoliation process.
CAN YOU COMBINE GLYCOLIC AND SALICYLIC ACID? AND SHOULD YOU?
Although combining glycolic and salicylic acids in the same skincare routine is do-able, you should do so with caution, for two reasons:
●The risk of over-exfoliation (leading to redness, breakouts, or compromised skin moisture barrier) as discussed above.
●Combining two acidic ingredients can excessively affect the skin’s pH, triggering adverse skin reactions.
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To minimise the risk of these, recommended precautions include:
● Do not use multiple products containing glycolic acid simultaneously
● Don't combine salicylic acid and glycolic acid with additional exfoliating acids
● Avoid additional physical exfoliating scrubs.
If you ARE planning to apply both salicylic and glycolic acid together, the recommended sequence is to use salicylic acid first, to allow it to penetrate the pores, then glycolic acid, which will mainly work on the skin’s surface.
La Roche-Posay's Effaclar Ultra Concentrated Salicylic Acid Serum contains both ingredients already carefully formulated in the right concentrations for you.
CAN YOU MIX GLYCOLIC AND SALICYLIC ACID WITH OTHER ACTIVES?
As above, we don't recommend mixing products containing glycolic and salicylic acids with additional exfoliating acids, or physical exfoliating scrubs, because of the risk of over-exfoliation and compromising the skin's moisture barrier.
In addition, the effectiveness of some active ingredients can be compromised by the acidity of these hydroxy acids. In particular, vitamin C and niacinamide require a neutral skin pH to work properly. We therefore don't recommend applying either of these at the same time as exfoliating acids. Use them at different times of day, or on alternate days instead.
LA ROCHE-POSAY GLYCOLIC ACID AND SALICYLIC ACID PRODUCTS
La Roche-Posay offers a range of glycolic acid and salicylic acid products designed to address various skin concerns. These include:
Effaclar Micro-Peeling Purifying Gel Cleanser is the ultimate cleanser for acne-prone skin. Suitable for face and body, it contains both salicylic acid and LHA (another BHA and salicylic acid derivative). With these, it helps eliminate dead skin cells from the surface, unclog and refine pores, and reduce excess sebum. All of which helps to visibly reduce the appearance of blackheads and other blemishes.
Effaclar Anti-Acne Salicylic Acid Serum has a fast-absorbing texture and non-sticky finish, ideal for subsequent application of a facial moisturiser. A daily serum formulated with both glycolic acid and salicylic acids, it helps to visibly reduce the appearance of blemishes, imperfections, fine lines and wrinkles,
Effaclar Duo+M Anti-Imperfections Moisturiser has a hydrating, lightweight, gel-cream texture that spreads evenly and absorbs quickly without feeling sticky or oily. Specifically designed for oily (or combination), blemish-prone skin, it contains salicylic acid to gently exfoliate skin and unclog pores, helping prevent breakouts. Targets blackheads, blemishes, and post-blemish marks. Suitable for users from 10 years old*, and all skin tones.
*Under parental supervision
SUMMARY
With a clearer understanding of glycolic acid and salicylic acid, you can now make more informed decisions about your skincare regimen. When used correctly, these ingredients can help with dry skin, blemishes, or ageing.
Frequently asked Questions
Is glycolic acid better than salicylic acid?
Can I use salicylic acid and glycolic acid together?
Should I use glycolic or salicylic acid at night?
Can I use glycolic acid if I have dry skin?
How does salicylic acid work for breakouts?
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